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Home arrow Latest News arrow Two Jakarta labels drape their way to eco-fashion


				
			
			
Two Jakarta labels drape their way to eco-fashion PDF Print E-mail
Written by Maizer   
Monday, 25 February 2019

Two Jakarta-based designers have taken several steps toward sustainable fashion by experimenting with more environmentally friendly production techniques.

 

Ayudya Paramitha “Mitha” Lengkoan, 31, is an architect working at the notable Andra Martin Architects Firm, but has run her own Hlaii fashion label since 2016. The label aims to design clothing that leaves less fabric on the production floor for tossing into the trash.

 

Mitha and her team have been working to reduce textile waste to zero to 15 percent. It was no easy feat, she said, but with a creativity and innovation, they were able to reduce waste.

 

Hlaii's clothes actually involve no cutting, as the entire length of the fabric is made into a continuous design using techniques she and her team have developed.

 

"We are usually working with a rectangular [piece of] fabric and use draping, crumpling and folding techniques. We often work without sketching, since I have no skills in pattern making," Mitha.

 

Her sensitivity to caring for high-quality fabrics also prompted Mitha to create zero waste designs, which she claims would make the clothing last. The label's clothes, dresses and kebaya (traditional Indonesian blouse) are all made to order, and clients can wait up to two weeks for the final piece.

 

"With this technique, high-value fabrics like songket (brocaded textile) or antique fabrics can always be transformed into whatever kind of clothing  the owner desires, because they can undo the stitches,” Mitha said.

 

Hlaii's clothing starts from Rp 850,000 (US$60.75).

 

Since she has no formal training in making patterns, Mitha designs Hlaii's clothing from the intuition she developed as an architect.

 

"I like things that are asymmetrical. Balance does not have to be A equals A," she said.

 

Although the label is still relatively new in the industry, top Indonesian celebrities like Dian Sastrowardoyo, Yura Yunita and Gita Gutawa have been past clients.

 

Fashion is one of the world's most damaging industries according to a UN Environment report last June, which cited a recent study by the Ellen McArthur Foundation that found one truckload of textile waste was produced every second. The Copenhagen Fashion Summit also stated that the global fashion industry contributed 92 million tons of solid waste to landfills every year.

 

Meanwhile, the World Bank's 2017 statistics showed that the textile industry contributed about 20 percent of the world's industrial water pollution.

 

Such concerns, especially Jakarta's ever-growing heap of waste management issues, also prompted Jeanny Primasari. 35, and her sister Vonny, 31, to take the route to zero waste design a year ago with their 4-year-old label, Khaya Heritage.

 

The sisters' label is similar to Hlaii and uses little to no cutting, but it focuses primarily on ready-to-wear clothes instead of bespoke dresses.

 

Khaya Heritage also costs less, starting from Rp 200,000 to Rp 500,000 per piece.

 

“We used conventional techniques at the beginning, but since we switched to eco-fashion, we have been experimenting with new techniques like folding and draping. It was difficult at first, but we are learning each day,” said Jeanny.

 

Vonny said zero waste design meant that customers received the maximum value for their money, as they paid for – and got – the entire length of fabric used in the clothing. She added that they were also contributing minimal waste for the earth.

 

Aside from zero waste designs, Khaya Heritage also uses natural dyes made from plants instead of synthetic dyes as part of its sustainable fashion principle.

 

Further, Jeanny and Vonny said they had established developed an eco-fashion community, which comprised 70 clothing manufacturers and fashion enthusiasts by Saturday.

 

“Changing consumers’ perspective is the most important thing. Consumers should help clothing producers become aware that they expect sustainable fashion,” said Vonny.

 

 

 

 

Dua Label Fashion Lokal Ini Sudah Beralih ke Sistem Produksi Berkelanjutan

 

 

Dua perancang busana yang berbasis di Jakarta telah mengambil beberapa langkah menuju fashion berkelanjutan dengan bereksperimen dengan teknik produksi yang lebih ramah lingkungan.

 

Ayudya Paramitha "Mitha" Lengkoan, 31, adalah seorang arsitek yang bekerja di Perusahaan Arsitek Andra Martin terkemuka, tetapi telah menjalankan label mode Hlaii miliknya sendiri sejak 2016. Label ini memiliki tujuan untuk merancang pakaian yang meninggalkan lebih sedikit kain di lantai produksi untuk dibuang ke tempat sampah.

 

Mitha dan timnya telah bekerja untuk mengurangi limbah tekstil menjadi nol hingga 15 persen. Itu bukan prestasi yang mudah, ujarnya, tetapi dengan kreativitas dan inovasi, mereka mampu mengurangi limbah.

 

Pakaian Hlaii sebenarnya tidak melibatkan pemotongan, karena seluruh panjang kain dibuat menjadi desain berkelanjutan menggunakan teknik yang telah ia dan timnya kembangkan.

 

"Kami biasanya bekerja dengan kain [persegi panjang] dan menggunakan teknik draping, crumpling, dan folding. Kami sering bekerja tanpa membuat sketsa, karena saya tidak memiliki keterampilan dalam pembuatan pola," kata Mitha seperti dikutip oleh The Jakarta Post pada hari Sabtu. Meskipun kadang ketika produksi tetap melibatkan beberapa pemotongan, label miliknya ini masih berpegang pada prinsip nol limbah.

 

Kepekaannya untuk merawat kain berkualitas tinggi juga mendorong Mitha untuk membuat desain nol limbah, yang menurutnya akan menjadikan pakaian itu bertahan lama. Pakaian dan kebaya dari label miliknya semuanya dibuat sesuai pesanan, dan klien dapat menunggu hingga dua minggu untuk hasil jadi.

 

"Dengan teknik ini, kain bernilai tinggi seperti songket (kain brokat) atau kain antik bisa selalu diubah menjadi jenis pakaian apa pun yang diinginkan pemiliknya, karena mereka dapat membuka kembali jahitannya," kata Mitha.

 

Mitha mendesain pakaiannya di Hlaii dengan intuisi yang ia kembangkan sebagai seorang arsitek.

 

Meskipun labelnya masih relatif baru di industri ini, selebriti papan atas Indonesia seperti Dian Sastrowardoyo, Yura Yunita, dan Gita Gutawa pernah menjadi klien di masa lampau.

 

Fashion adalah salah satu industri yang paling merusak di dunia menurut sebuah laporan Lingkungan PBB Juni lalu, yang dikutip dalam sebuah studi baru-baru ini oleh Ellen McArthur Foundation yang menemukan satu truk berisi limbah tekstil diproduksi setiap detik. Fashion Summit di Kopenhagen juga menyatakan bahwa industri mode global menyumbang 92 juta ton limbah padat ke tempat pembuangan sampah setiap tahun.

 

Sementara itu, statistik Bank Dunia 2017 menunjukkan bahwa industri tekstil menyumbang sekitar 20 persen dari polusi air industri dunia.

 

Tumpukan masalah pengelolaan sampah yang terus meningkat di Jakarta, juga mendorong Jeanny Primasari, 35, dan saudara perempuannya Vonny, 31, untuk mengambil rute ke desain zero waste setahun yang lalu dengan label mereka yang telah berusia 4 tahun, Khaya Heritage.

 

Label milik kedua saudara perempuan ini mirip dengan Hlaii dan menggunakan sedikit atau tanpa pemotongan, tetapi berfokus terutama pada pakaian siap pakai bukan gaun yang dipesan lebih dahulu.

 

“Kami menggunakan teknik konvensional pada awalnya, tetapi sejak kami beralih ke eco-fashion, kami telah bereksperimen dengan teknik-teknik baru seperti folding dan draping. Awalnya susah, tapi kami belajar setiap hari," kata Jeanny.

 

Vonny mengatakan desain nol limbah berarti bahwa pelanggan menerima nilai maksimum untuk uang mereka, karena mereka membayar - dan mendapatkan - seluruh panjang kain yang digunakan dalam pakaian. Dia menambahkan bahwa mereka juga menyumbang limbah minimal untuk bumi.

 

Selain dari desain nol limbah, Khaya Heritage juga menggunakan pewarna alami yang terbuat dari tanaman, bukan pewarna sintetis sebagai bagian dari prinsip fashion berkelanjutan.

 

Selanjutnya, Jeanny dan Vonny mengatakan mereka telah membangun komunitas eco-fashion, yang terdiri dari 70 produsen pakaian dan penggemar mode hingga Sabtu kemarin.

 

“Mengubah perspektif konsumen adalah hal yang paling penting. Konsumen harus membantu produsen pakaian sadar bahwa mereka mengharapkan mode yang berkelanjutan,” kata Vonny.

 

 
		
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